Kayye Nynne asked:


There are a good number of reasons why you should train your dog of which the following include some of the more obvious :

 

1. Housetraining: Unless you are partial to the aroma of dog **** and *** then it would certainly make sense to, at the very least, have your dog housetrained. Yup! There’s no way round it, but that cute bundle of fur otherwise known as a puppy, unless taught to the contrary will quickly and happily turn your pristine house not only into his playground but also into his personal toilet. And make no mistake, this is not a problem that is going to disappear with age; any dog that is not housetrained be it a puppy or adult will soil your residence until it is taught not to!

 

2. Socializing: An unsocialized dog is generally an unhappy dog because such an animal finds it extremely difficult to interact comfortably with strangers or other dogs (and animals). This type of dog is characteristically nervous and highly-strung, which condition manifest as a dog with a hair-trigger response to aggression at the slightest perceived provocation (usually more imaginary than real) or a dog that slinks around in a constant state of fear. It matters little which errant behavior is displayed, the fact is either existence will be detrimental to the dog’s well-being.

 

3. Bonding: A well trained dog is a happy dog. When you and your dog understand one another well your relationship is going to be that much richer for it.The only way to achieve that level of harmony in your relationship with your dog is if you both work at understanding one another; and that will only be achieved through proper training. Besides dog training should be fun for you and your pooch, especially since it challenges and stimulates your dog’s mind. As frequently happens with human adolescents, a bored dog is going to be driven to destructive behavior; this is especially true in the smarter breed of dog.

 

Types of Dog Training

 

These days there are quite a number of different dog training techniques, enough to accommodate everybody dog owner out there. Some are very popular and come highly recommended whilst others seem to be a throwback to a more primitive time and age when we didn’t understand man’s best friend as we do now. The following lists some of the more commonly used methods of dog training:

 

1. Reward Training

 

Currently a big favorite in dog training circles, this technique employs the use of treats to reinforce good and desired behavior patterns executed by your dog. When used correctly this is a pretty effective training technique but its downside is that it is fairly easy to abuse the system and thus nullify its effectiveness by giving your dog treats at times other than during dog training sessions.

 

2. Clicker Training

 

Clicker training is a classic Pavlovian technique that utilizes conditional training through sensory association. As the name suggests the clicker, which is a plastic box with an inbuilt metal strip that makes the actual clicking sound, is used in conjunction with a treat or something your dog finds highly desirable to reinforce and encourage a particular behavior. In time the treat reward is removed yet the dog still associates a given behavior with the sound of the clicker and thus performs that behavior in the absence of the treat.

 

3. Whistle Training

 

Dogs have far better hearing than people and can hear frequencies that our ears cannot pick up. It is on the basis of this premise that the ultrasonic whistle functions which means that since you cannot hear it but your dog can (supposedly) it can be a little tricky getting to grips with its use.

 

4. Dog Whispering

 

Yeah sounds a bit corny doesn’t it and most likely the name of this method is an obvious offshoot reference from the 1998 Robert Redford movie (starring amongst others a young Scarlett Johansson) titled the Horse Whisperer themed around a man who had an uncanny ability to communicate with horses. Anyway these days Dog Whispering is now a broadly accepted term and its training technique is based on understanding a dog’ body language and the many unvocalized signals that are part and parcel of dog communication.

 

These four examples above are just a few of the dog training methods available and in fact there are a whole slew of collar based  training methods that have not been listed here partly because some of them are archaic and barbaric such as electric collar training or prong collars.

In summary, this article barely touches the tip of the iceberg as far as dog training is concerned but the thing to remember is that utilizing dog training in the everyday life of your pooch will greatly enrich the relationship the two of you share.

Article on dog training written by Kayye Nynne

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ED

Dana asked:


If we do get a new dog, I need to know of some good squeaky toy brands, collars, bowls, beds, etc. Any ideas? Links to websites would be nice, and the dog is a girl.

JOHNNY

MemaStathopoulou asked:

..:: Pavlov’s Dog - Julia ::.. :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: Julia you set the standards for me. Walk to your door. Beggin for it just to be more and… Julia I couldn’t do much better than you. Said so yourself! I wouldn’t want anyone else… And I can’t live without your love! And I can’t live without your love! Well I can’t live without you… Julia, oh you’re drivin me crazy, But I’m… I’m a part of your plans. Oh just a man while your dreams be, Oh please see how much how much …

WILEY

Kingsley asked:


Dog barking if left can get out of hand and then becomes uncontrollable when a remedy is taken late to alternate its barking behavior, it is always good to train your dog to stop dog barking because taking dogs barking for granted might result in your dog biting someone or even you. Always try to apply some dog barking remedy as soon as you notice your dog has developed a barking problem, it’s also good to start initially to stop your dog barking because if you leave it to continue, he might make it a habit and then trying to stop the dog barking later on might not be easy. Naturally your dog is supposed to bark when a stranger or a thief approaches you or any of your things, you know quiet well is not normal for your dogs to bark when something that is not usual is going on. To stop dog barking has strategies just like everything else, its always good for you to allow your dogs to socialize with other dogs especially dogs that of good behaviors not those that are naughty, this can help to stop dog barking, at least you can take your dog to a friends house or dogs park or something like that to spend sometime with his/her or other dogs. Dogs just like human beings needs socialization, remember that whenever you are bored, you don’t feel relaxed you always look for things to use and get away with your boredom. Dogs love meeting new dogs, sometimes you might have noticed the excitement in them whenever they see dogs like them passing by, they always love to approach them if an opportunity is giving to them. I recommend you to visit Kingdom of Pets if you want to stop your dog barking.

Another method you can use to stop dog barking is by petting them, its your pet and you need to pet them, don’t punish them whenever they do little things. Some dogs owner love scolding their dogs which is very bad, these cant stop dog barking rather it would make dogs be aggressive, these normally make dogs start to bark out of the fear you impacted in dogs. Try as much as possible to avoid stuffs like beating, tapping, smacking or even kicking it, these are the most things that encourage dog barking. It is always necessary to leave dogs with their mom when they are born newly, its one of the things believed to help stop dog barking the easy way with taking it to a long extent, when you take dogs away from their mom before they are 5 months of age they wont get the necessary pre natal care from their mom. It’s like taking away a newborn **** from their mom, don’t you think this would do her great harm. Just like human beings, dogs need care, these can reduce or even stop dog barking.

Dogs that bark anyhow could be dangerous at times because you need to know why the dog is barking. When you take your dog barking problems for granted and it bites someone you could be sued for it resulting in hundreds or even thousand of dollars for dog bites when you can easily apply some strategies to use to stop dogs barking problems. Provide your dogs with variety of toys to keep them busy, try to impact in them the habit of playing with those toys but don’t let them over do it, it might go to another level, you can let them play with it for 2 or 3 hours and then put them to another task like eating or any thing you feel can help them get busy.

Some dogs do not know whether barking is good or wrong, they have lived with it since they were born, its your duty to make them stop barking, sometimes you can tell you dogs to stop barking when they bark, words like that can ease the situation. Always try to scold dogs a little when they are barking in friendly way, do not leave it till after they’ve finished barking, trying to hit them when dogs bark can worsen the whole situation. You can try splashing your dog some little water on the face to stop barking, these might ease the barking come from your dogs. When you have noticed it has stopped barking, try to reward it with something you know your dog love so much, everything has a reward, now that you know that you don’t like your dog barking and you tried some tricks to make it stop and finally it did stop, reward her immediately don’t wait for it to pass so long, you can reward it after 4 seconds or less, you can try saying words like good dog, another day don’t bark, I will always treat good if you stop barking, I **** it when you bark, in a cool and gentle way, less i forget while you say this words you could touch her body, the hairs and of course the head these might make your dog feel that the owner doesn’t like dogs barking.

They are many numerous ways to stop dog barking, you may never know the type your dog needs to stop its behavior, I recommend you to get these ebook on how to stop dogs behavior it would go a long way in stopping your dog barking behavior, not only that but also stop your dog jumping, bitting, ********* anyhow or even digging holes, no matter what their problem might be. I equally use it to stop my dog biting problems; it is rich in dogs training. Visit Kingdom of Pets



ABDUL

islandrecords asked:

Single out 1st December Official video directed by Tom Beard

SILAS

Marc Goldberg, CDT asked:


Guarding is an instinctual behavior for dogs. It is useful to us when they warn strangers who intrude on their (and our) territory. One of the earliest benefits dog provided to man was to serve as an early warning intruder alert system.

Territoriality is, simply stated, guarding space. It is the dog’s way of saying “this space has value and it belongs to me and my pack.” In fact, dogs guard all sorts of things, some tangible, such as food, others intangible such as space.

When they guard these items from outsiders it can be helpful. I leave my home knowing my dog will be alert to an inappropriate intrusion. Dogs also guard tangibles and intangibles from one another. You shouldn’t expect to see a ********** dog take a bone or scrap from the alpha or dominant dog. Should he try, he’ll face a swift correction. But that’s rarely necessary because in the structure of the dog pack, it is clearly understood who is entitled to what and when.

But what happens when that clear understanding is lacking between a dog and members of his human pack? The results can be a disaster…a dog who guards something against his very owners.

In this article we’ll concentrate on space guarding behaviors. In the dog pack, if the dominant dog wants to walk from point A to point B, he will do it even if he has to nudge a lesser dog out of his way. If the more ********** dog protests, what he is actually doing is challenging the authority of his leader by trying to guard the space he occupies.

The same event may transpire in our homes. Your dog helps himself to a place on the sofa. You either sit down next to him, or try to take his collar to pull him off. Your own dog growls or snaps at you. He’s guarding space. Moreover, he’s stating in dog language that he believes he is dominant to you.

You need to open a cabinet and the dog is blocking your way. You take his collar to move him, and he growls or bites. The same thing may occur when you want to push the dog out a door, pass him in a narrow hallway, or get too close to him laying in his favorite spot.

In many households, the human occupants do not realize that their dog is guarding space until the dog becomes completely out of control. In fact, we excuse the behavior. That’s because too often people apply human standards to canine behavior. Among our species it is impolite to pull someone out of a chair or shoulder them aside when you need something. So if the dog growls when you sit by him on the couch, many people wrongly think the dog is just being grumpy, or that he was too comfortable to be disturbed.

I have actually seen adults chastise children for being “impolite” to a dog for sitting next to him on furniture, or for wanting to remove the dog from their place. People subconsciously try to accept these problems as “quirks” of the dog. Many owners try to just work around the issue by not disturbing the dog under whatever circumstance causes the dog to guard.

Unfortunately, this sends precisely the wrong message to the dog. Humoring him confirms that he is dominant, and is, therefore, entitled to guard more and more space. That’s why guarding behavior escalates for many dogs. Often, I hear from owners who’s dog began to growl at them under very limited conditions, say when being pulled off the sofa. But eventually the behavior escalates to the point where the dog growls when they even get near him on the sofa.

The owner thinks the dog is getting worse. The dog simply thinks he’s getting stronger. For some dogs, dominance is a self-rewarding behavior. You want to remove him from the couch. He growls. You back off. The behavior works. So eventually he growls when you even look at him on the couch. “They just don’t seem to get it,” the dog is thinking. “I’ll have to warn them earlier.”

This can become very problematic for some pet owners, particularly those with young children in the house. Kids often don’t realize that they’re not “supposed to bother the dog.” They just figure they have liberty to safely toddle wherever their little legs will take them. And if you ask me, they should have that right.

Older children must be taught to respect dogs. And younger children must be observed very carefully when they interact with a dog, to be sure they do not accidentally pinch him for example. But no one can expect a two year old child to understand she should avoid Rover when he’s laying on the sofa.

Willy is a three year old German Short Hair Pointer. His owner, Lisa, called me very concerned. Willy had been growling at her baby every time the child approached him in his dog bed. Sometimes Willy would climb on the couch, and he would also growl at the baby on those occasions. Apparently this behavior had been going on for over a month. And just recently, the dog had growled at Lisa when she sat near him on the couch. Lisa was very confused because this entire set of behaviors was only about a month old, but it was getting worse fast.

“Did your baby start walking about a month ago?” I asked her. The answer was yes. That made it all clear to me. Willy always felt Lisa was dominant to him. So he never growled at her before. But when the baby started walking, this impudent little human would intrude on his space, and Willy did believe himself dominant to the baby.

Not understanding the behavior, Lisa had spent an entire month showing Willy how dominant he was by not correcting him and not letting the baby disturb him when he was comfortable. The unintended message to Willy was that he was more dominant than he had originally thought. That’s why he began to guard space from Lisa too.

While not all dogs progress from growling to snapping, or from air snapping to contact biting, that does happen with some dogs. And it’s tragic because it usually doesn’t need to reach that point. Left untreated, most dogs who effectively guard space will eventually scare or hurt their owners enough to be removed from their homes, or be put down.

Willy became a client of the Chicagoland Boarding School for Dogs. In the time he spent with us, we used our Forcefree Method to show him that space was not a resource he should guard from his human family.

We taught Willy a series of exercises using a vibrating training collar delivering a series of low level taps. The vibration, while not at all painful, was attention getting. (Before we put the collar on Willy, we let Lisa feel the the collar on her hand so she understood they were not painful. Lisa described the feeling as a mild tickle.) During the initial phase of training, our goal was to teach Willy that when he felt the taps, he could stop them by altering a behavior.

We started out with leash pulling, showing him that pulling on a tight leash turned on the tapping sensation, and that walking nicely on a loose leash turned them off. Then we went to the sit stay. We showed Willy that getting up when he was supposed to be sitting turned on taps that he could turn off instantly by re-sitting himself.

The reason we didn’t go right to the space guarding issue was simple. We didn’t want to overwhelm the dog by immediately training for the most difficult behavior first. Also the guarding behaviors are very specific to the family. They might be tough to reproduce without his sofa, his baby, and his owner.

But once Willy understood that he could stop collar taps by altering a behavior, we were ready to confront the real issue, the guarding of space. By this point in the training, we had established a bond of trust and affection with Willy. That was critical because now we were teaching him to yield his personal space to us under the pressure of the taps.

In short, by sometimes invading Willy’s personal space, while tapping, we showed him that he could turn off the tapping, as usual, by giving us a desired behavior…in this case, moving out of the way. Starting on leash, we held the dog close to our body, literally turning into him, and tapped as we moved through his space. Using a combination of leash pressure and body movement, we moved Willy out of the way. The second he began to yield his space, the taps stopped.

Willy began to understand very quickly. Space wasn’t worth guarding anymore. In fact, each time we asked him to give up space, he became very willing to do so at once. After all, as far as he knew, any space we asked him for became slightly annoying anyway.

We brought this dog home at the conclusion of our ten day program, reoriented him to his family and his environment, transferred the behavior modification techniques to his owner over the course of two hours. Then we left.

Lisa called two days later. She reported that Willy was leaving his dog bed as soon as the baby approached. We were happy with this report, but Lisa was concerned. She wanted the dog and the baby to be friends and she was worried that the dog was now “fleeing” from the baby.

We explained that this was progress given that the dog had modified a major behavior and was now yielding space, rather than guarding it. We advised her to give it some more time to see if the dog would eventually find pleasure in sharing space, time and bonding with the baby in his new ********** role. We did warn Lisa that not all dogs bond with all people, but that it was still a distinct possibility.

Two weeks later Lisa called again, and she was very happy. She found Willy and the baby curled up together in the dog’s bed. Apparently, Willy had calmed down enough to realize that while he was no longer able to guard space, there was a wonderful pleasure in sharing it.

Trust is something that grows over time, and with experience. Every day that passes as Willy continues to show the right reaction is one more day in which the trust between he and his family grows. Willy has been home for several months now, and all the reports are good news.

Here is a dog who was at severe risk for re-homing and possibly might have injured a child, curled up in bed with his little master.



BROOKS

Kayye Nynne asked:


The Siberian Husky belongs to the so-called Spitz Group of dogs and has variously been known at one time or another under the following names:

• Artic Husky Dog

• Siberian Chukchi

• Chukchi Sled Dog

• Chukchi or Chuchi

The Siberian Husky developed as a purebred dog breed through its isolated existence with the native people known as the Chukchi that existed in the extreme north-eastern region of Siberia around Yakutsk located north of Stanovoi Mountains. Some legends in fact narrate how the word husky arose as a corruption in the pronunciation of the word “Chukchi” by European migrants to the region.

Some dog authorities are of the opinion that the Siberian Husky had developed as a purebred dog breed as far back as 3000 years ago through its isolated existence with the Chukchi. Unquestionably there is Northern Wolf blood in the Siberian Husky dog breed mix and for centuries from generation through generation it was customary for the Chukchi people to only breed the very best of lead dogs while neutering the rest to eliminate the reproduction of undesired traits. In this manner the Chukchi not only vastly improved the genetic lineage of the Siberian Husky dog breed but also consolidated its genetic purity as a thoroughbred dog breed.Husky Dogs

When the Siberian Husky dogs of the village were not working there were cared for by the women of the tribe which meant that the dogs had to be in close proximity with them and their children. Thus another trait which the Chukchi people bred for in their husky dogs was a sound and balanced temperament, since naturally they would not want aggressive and ill-tempered dogs hanging around their children. Ironically enough it was this pleasant nature and temperament of character that moved many people to dismiss the Siberian Husky as an insignificant sled-racing dog contender; that is until the Siberian Husky “got on the ice and started performing!”

Siberian Husky Dog Racing History

As earlier pointed out the Chukchi people of Siberia had bred the Siberian Husky dog to the pinnacle of work performance on the snow and for excellence of temperament. In essence they bred a superb sled dog perfected to carry light loads such as hunted game for extensive distances at remarkable speeds. The Chukchi’s unschooled dog breeding program was so successful that in effect they had bred the ultimate sled-pulling dog.

By the end of the 19th century news of these amazing sled dogs filtered to North America and in 1909 a team of imported Siberian Husky dogs debuted in a major sled race in Alaska. Although the Siberian Husky was dismissed by many as being far too small and docile to match competitively against their bigger and more powerful counterparts (the Alaskan Malamute and the Eskimo Dog both of which average around 100 lbs in weight as compared to the Siberian Husky dog’s relative featherweight of 60 pounds), as soon as the Husky started racing it quashed all doubt. Put simply, the Siberian Husky created quite the sensation by outperforming all the other dog breeds in the race.

One racer present was so impressed by the relatively “miniscule” Siberian Husky dogs’ performance he imported 70 of them to prepare and ready for the next race in 1910. He wasn’t disappointed. In 1910 his three dog teams comprised of Siberian Huskies dogs placed 1st, 2nd and 4th in the All-Alaska Sweepstakes Race, which covered a distance of 408 miles between the towns of Nome and Candle. The stage was set and from then onwards the Siberian Husky was recognized far and wide as the ultimate sled-racing dog.



Siberian Husky Dog:  Perfection of Form to Function

Once it made its stunning debut in the All-Alaska Sweepstakes Race, the Siberian Husky dog breed literally became an overnight sensation in sled dog-racing circles. Even so its phenomenal success baffled both spectator and racer alike. How could such a comparatively lightweight and small sled dog drastically outperform and outrace the bigger dog breeds such as the Alaskan Malamute and Eskimo dog; both of which were more powerful and boasted a longer stride.

The secret to the husky dog’s superior sled-racing skills lay in its inherent form that was beautifully adapted for speed sled pulling. At a maximum weight of sixty pounds, the Siberian Husky dog had attained the ideal pull- weight ratio for sled racing. An excess of 60 pounds in weight would result in a proportionally decreased surface area for heat loss or conversely a disproportionate increase in heat storage. Dogs are notoriously inefficient at losing heat, most especially big dogs, and such an issue would constitute a very big problem in long distance races such as those like the four-day 25 mile marathon race that sled dogs have to endure.

In short, selective centuries of breeding by the Chukchi people of particular dogs with their most desired traits for loaded-sled pulling on slippery surfaces at high speed resulted in a dog breed perfectly formed and designed for just such a pursuit. The Siberian Husky was that dog, the perfect balance of weight to optimal sled-pulling ratio at high and sustained speed.

Siberian Husky Makes Its Mark In History

In the winter of 1925 a very serious diphtheria endemic struck the city of Nome in Alaska. Being deep winter the only routes accessible at the time were dog trails that spanned across hundreds of miles of snowy plains. In an unprecedented feat of speed and endurance a number of teams of Siberian Husky dogs led by legendary Norwegian Champion Dog driver Leonhard Seppala streaked across 340 miles of unforgiving snow and harsh winter in a race against time to save the city. In what came to be known in history as the fabled “ Serum Run” Seppala and his team of Siberian Husky dogs saved the city of Nome!

Following their amazing rescue mission Leonhard Seppala and a team of huskies went on a tour across the United States forever cementing this dog breed in the hearts and minds of the American public. In Commemoration of the “Serum Run” to this day a statue of one of those heroic Siberian Husky dogs resides in New York’s Central Park. Later thanks to the significant role that the Siberian Husky dog played in military search & rescue operations in the Artic during World war II as well as Seppala’s State-wide tour people’s admiration for this dog breed was further consolidated. The Siberian Husky was officially recognized by the AKC in 1930.

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EDDY

Kayye Nynne asked:


Imagine that every time you attempt to talk to your best friend their response is one of harsh scolding words. Now picture this happening not once, twice or thrice but almost every single day. I’m betting soon there won’t be much of anything to call as friendship left! I’ll even go out on a limb here and hazard a guess that soon the two of you won’t be talking altogether. Perhaps you’d withdraw into some kinda shell or maybe the bombardment of negativity and criticism would drive you to lash out in anger one day.

Okay, now let’s picture this scenario a little bit differently in that you happen to be a dog and that supposed best friend of yours is your owner.  That makes it a tad more complicated doesn’t it, especially if your owner is not trying to be intentionally cruel or harsh but simply doesn’t understand how to communicate properly with you!

Okay revert back to your human form for now. Have you ever tried communicating with someone who doesn’t speak the same language as you? It isn’t easy is it! There’s a whole lot of arm waving, gesticulating, self-conscious grinning and ****** contortions, much of which isn’t actually helping you to understand one another any better…and we are talking about communication between individuals from the same species here! That pretty much puts into perspective the monumental wall standing between you and your dog communicating efficiently with one another.

The very real problem here is that you don’t talk dogspeak and neither does your dog speak any human language but that doesn’t mean that you can’t learn how to communicate effectively with one another. And seeing as you happen to be the more intelligent species in this particular partnership, the onus is on you to create that better environment of communication. However unfortunately far too often this is not the case, more often than not it being the dog owner representing the party that gets irritated and confrontational during sessions of communication. If and when a situation such as this continues for a long enough duration this in turn could make your dog to:

•    Become depressed and withdraw

•    Start avoiding you

•    Whimper and slink about whenever you’re in the vicinity

•    Become aggressive and unmanageable

Communication With Your Dog Starts With Understanding Your Dog



Like us humans, dogs have their own standard dog etiquette that incorporates accepted proper behavior and quite naturally in the same way that we expect them to respond in a desired manner to our communication so do they expect no less from us. But as pointed out previously, being that we are two very different species, notwithstanding the fact that we have co-existed side by side for thousands of years, the inescapable fact is that dogs and us speak entirely different languages!

Thus to forge a better relationship with your dog you need to have a better understanding of dog communicative signals other than the obvious ones that comprise dog language.

Dog Language

Dogs bark, growl, yelp, snarl, whine, howl, warble and sing as a means of communication between themselves and other species such as us. Dogs can tell pretty accurately from the tone and inflection of our voices what kind of mood and state of mind we are in, much in the same way that we can judge their intent from the type of vocalization they utter. However there is only so far such communication takes usand the plain fact of the matter is that so much of dog language exists in the form of unvocalized signals; something the average dog owner is utterly unaware of.

Generally speaking all dogs no matter where they come from (thanks to their common ancestral origins, the wolf) understand what another dog is saying. However some dogs are better adapted to unvocalized signals than others. For example dogs that have docked tails cannot communicate dog signals that incorporate tail action. Also color patterns do play a part in dog language communication, and dogs that have black outline eyes with tan spots above them are better able to communicate eye-related signals because of such contrast. Completely black dogs or white ones are at a disadvantage from this perspective, which may explain why black dogs use the licking signal more often than the ones using ****** expressions.

Common Unvocalized Dog Signals

Nose Licking:  Nose licking by dogs is one of the signals they use to show their discomfort or alternatively it used as a message to calm down other dogs or people in a situation in which the dog doing the licking evaluates as one that is too stressful.

Head Turning:  The motion of head turning could be a subtle swivel or a single swift movement; sometimes the head turning could be a prolonged side to side movement. Averting their heads is another manner in which dogs can defuse potentially explosive situations between themselves because by turning their heads away they are signaling non-threatening intentions in polite doggy speak.

Next time you are stooping over your dog look carefully to see if he or she turns their head away; if they do then they are evidently signaling to you that it makes them feel uncomfortable. If you pay special attention next time you’ll also notice that dogs rarely look directly at one another because it is considered impolite and rife with threat. When dogs are seated in group they generally avert their heads away from one another in keeping with polite dog etiquette (much like the way civilized persons make a point of not staring directly at the person opposite them in a subway car).

Eye Squinting:  Dogs narrow their eyes to express to the person or fellow canine to whom their gaze is directed that they have no ill intentions, and that there is no veiled threat implied from that gaze. Whenever a dog looks at another dog directly with no threatening intentions, the dog squints its eyes to make sure the other dog understands that no aggression is intended.

Dog Bowing:  Bowing represents a number of things in doggy language but most commonly it is an invitation to play. Dogs don’t only bow to other dogs they also bow to people and other animals. When a bowing dog also hops from foot to foot then unquestionably that is an invitation to play. Sometimes dogs also use bowing as a means  to calm or de-stress a situation.

Yawning:  A yawning dog does not reflect a tired dog; yawning happens to be yet another de-stressing signal in doggy language. This is one dog signal you can use quite effectively to calm your dog when it is anxious or agitated. These are just a few of the many unvocalized signals dog use to communicate with other dogs and us. You can easily use some of these dog signals to communicate with your furry best friend. However I wouldn’t recommend going around slobbering your tongue across your face; that may go down well in doggy world but I am not sure the same can be said in the real world!

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DUSTIN