Debbie Ray asked:


Do you want a new dog? Have you really thought about it? Why are you thinking about adding a new dog companion to your family in the first place? Do you have any idea what you’re looking for in a new dog companion? What are you real needs in a dog? And your wants? There are many things to consider first before bringing home that new bundle of joy.

It is very important, first, to match your new dogs overall personality, exercise requirements and needs to you and your family as closely as possible. With luck you’re choosing an animal that is likely to be with you for 10 years or longer so put forth a little research time in the beginning and you’ll be rewarded for your efforts for years to come.

Were you aware that the common dog comes in more than 400 different breed types world wide? There is much more variation among our friend the family dog than in any other species of mammal known today. The selection of available dog types to choose from is truly amazing. They come in more sizes, shapes, colors, coat types, abilities and personalities than you could shake a bone at.

Your job, should you choose to accept it, is to find the right dog breed to fit your personality as well as your current lifestyle. Dogs, just like people, have many different jobs and most were bred for very specific activities. This is probably one of the most important things you need to know before you get the wrong dog for you. Example: If you are a couch potato you don’t want to bring home a dog breed with extreme energy - and a need to express that - or if you are a triathlete, you don’t want to bring home a new exercise partner with tremendously low exercise requirements.

Here I will list each of the major AKC dog groups, briefly describe their overall purpose and what the dogs were originally bred to do, list many of the jobs dogs in each particular group currently perform, as well listing as a few members of each group.

- The Herding Group

Bred for stamina, these super intelligent herding dog breeds work with their owners all day long out in the fields moving livestock. Overall, these energetic, intelligent herding dog breeds make excellent pets and work extremely well with different kinds of training such as agility, flyball, Schutzhund, search and rescue and obedience. Keep in mind, since these dogs were bred to do a particular job (herding), they do better when they have lots of exercise.

A few members of the AKC herding group are the German Shepherd, Australian Shepherd, Border Collie and Bouvier des Flandres.

- The Working Group

The dogs of the working group were bred to help man in many various jobs - from pulling sleds, guarding a home or tracking, to pulling carts, water rescues, and more. These particular dog breeds have been bred for several generations for very definite purposes and they need jobs to fill their days. They have very active minds, and are very trainable and willing to work - it is also true that these working dog breeds also require a lot of training.

Overall, the larger size, power and strength of many of the members of this group may make them unsuitable for most families, however they thrive with the right companions. Remember, since most were bred to work, they do best with lots of exercise and a specific task to do.

A few members of the AKC working group are the Boxer, Alaskan Malamute, Great Dane, Saint Bernard, and Rottweiler.

- The Hound Group

The members of the AKC hound group were bred to help man while hunting. Divided into 2 separate groups, the hounds track their prey using their wonderful senses of sight (called sight hounds) or smell (called scent hounds). The hound dog group has some of the oldest dog breeds known to man today.

Many of these dogs are quite vocal based on their hunting background so it would be a good idea to hear their vocalizations before you decide to get a hound of your own. Also, it is also a good idea to keep these dogs on a leash at all times since they can easily be led by their nose, or eyes, into situations that may get them into trouble.

A few members of the AKC hound group are the Basset Hound, Beagle, Bloodhound, Greyhound and Rhodesian Ridgeback.

- The Terrier Group

The fiesty and energetic terrier group dog breed members were bred to hunt vermin both above and below ground and are often described as the "pest controllers" of the dog world. Typically these tenacious little dogs have little to no tolerance for any small fast moving animals, the postman, other dogs, etc. They are well known for their tenacious, fiesty and independent nature.

Terriers can make great pets in the right home but need a determined owner who matches their dogs’ spirited personality.

A few members of the AKC terrier group are the Airedale Terrier, Bull Terrier, Miniature Schnauzer, Scottish Terrier and the American Staffordshire Terrier.

- The Toy Group

The toy group dog breeds were developed simply to be our companions. Their main job is to make their owners happy. The only things the members of this dog group have in common really is their petit size. The toy dogs are also called "lap dogs" sometimes because this is where many of these toy breeds prefer to stay, in their masters lap.

It is very true that the name "toy" is very misleading. Many of the toy dogs are as tough as nails. Toy dogs are especially popular with people that live in apartments or people without a lot of living space.

A few members of the AKC toy group are the Pomeranian, Chihuahua, Pug, Yorkshire Terrier and the Havanese.

- Non-sporting Group

The different purebred dog breeds in the non-sporting group are a wide collection of dogs in all different types of shapes, sizes, coat types, jobs types, personalities and overall appearances. Many people call this the AKC "catch-all" dog group. The diverse membership of the non-sporting group contains a little bit of everything - big dogs, little dogs, hairy dogs, bald dog breeds and some of the finest companion dogs you might possibly ever own.

A few members of the AKC non-sporting group are the Bulldog, Lhasa Apso, Dalmatian, Boston Terrier, French Bulldog, and Keeshond.

- The Sporting Group

Well known for their incredible instincts in both the water and woods, many of the members of this AKC sporting dog group continue to actively participate in hunting and other field trials today, actively retrieving and hunting feathered or furred game for their masters. The sporting dog breeds are well known also for their easy going temperaments.

Included in this group you’ll find the pointers, retrievers, setters and spaniels. Keep in mind that the sporting dogs do need regular exercise, frequently.

A few members of the AKC sporting group are the Golden Retriever, Labrador Retriever, Irish Setter, Pointer and the Cocker Spaniel.

- Miscellaneous Dog Group

The many different dog breeds included in the AKC Miscellaneous Group are awaiting final breed recognition by the AKC. All dog breeds that are in this group can compete and earn titles in AKC Obedience, Tracking and Agility events.

Many of these dog breeds are ones that you may not see everyday but can make great pets in the right homes. Research each of these breeds one by one since they have different working backgrounds such as hunting, herding or guarding.

As of the writing of this article, the current members of the AKC Miscellaneous Group are the Pyrenean Shepherd, Beauceron, Redbone Coonhound, Dogue de Bordeaux, Norwegian Buhund and the Swedish Vallhund.

If you’re like most people you probably have many unanswered questions about dogs in general. Hopefully armed with the information above you will have a better idea of what various dog breeds were originally bred to do and will better understand whether or not they will fit your needs. Finding the right dog breed for you is truly a very important process. The best way to do that is when armed with the knowledge to make a decision based totally on fact, not fiction or hear say.

Copyright 2007. Debbie Ray. All Rights Reserved.



ENRIQUE

Jane Simmons asked:


Browse any grocery store or pet food store to buy Dog Food and you will agree that trying to decide on what is best for your dog is an exhausting task. Scanning the shelves of products available, you are bombarded by foods extolling different health benefits as well as a huge range of prices. The pet food industry is a multi-billion dollar industry and pet food manufacturers are eagerly marketing for every dollar. Not only are they marketing us to death, but also developing new products to put in front of us. Those products include “dry”, “canned”, “semi-moist” and health targeted products such as “senior”, “premium” and “gourmet.

So which food is best for your dog? Finding that out takes time and research. The truth is, the best dog food is the one that meets your dog’s nutritional requirements, which vary based upon the dog’s age, breed, body weight, genetics, and amount of activity… and one that fits within your budget. It is definitely worth consulting a veterinarian to get the best advice and nutrition plan for your dog. But for those of you that want to take matters in your own hands, you will find detailed below the most important things you will need to know.

Dog Food Labels

Susan Powter comes to mind when thinking about food labels. Remember this iconic infomercial star with the coined phrase “Stop the Insanity”? Her gospel about nutrition and the importance of studying the ingredients on the side of the packaging to distinguish the various elements and how each plays its role in overall nutrition, was novel at that time. It seems that this was the beginning of the mass movement to better nutrition, label reading and choosing products more carefully.

With all the recent pet food recalls, millions of dog owners have extended this scrutiny to selecting a dog food. But we can’t pull from the Susan Powter gospel for this, because dog foods are manufactured under a series of different standards and regulations, put forth by the AAFCO ( The Association of American Feed Control Officials ). There are special labeling requirements that require all dog foods to have certain information on the label. So, in order that we can all make a proper choice for our dogs, we must know how to read and understand the dog food label.

The AAFCO puts out an official publication, on a yearly basis, detailing special requirements for dog food. Among all the different requirements, they request all dog food manufacturers to adhere to label regulations and must include on the package the following:

# Product Name

# Guaranteed Analysis

# Nutritional Adequacy Statement

# Feeding Directions

The Name Game

When shopping for dog food, what is the first thing you look at? The product name, of course. We’ve all walked down the pet food aisle and seen the product names jump out as us…calling us. Displayed in bold type and fancy fonts such descriptions as “With Chicken”, “All Life Stages”, “Duck Entree”, “95% Beef”, “Natural Dog Food”. But what do these descriptions really mean? Is it just fancy marketing? The AAFCO has set forth rules that dictate how ingredients can be used in a product name.

95% Rule

# Applies to most canned dog food that consists mostly of meat, poultry or fish.

# Specifies that at least 95% of the dog food must be the named ingredient on the label, not counting water and preservatives added for processing.

# Counting water, the product must still consist of 70% of the product.

# If the name consists of a combination of ingredients, the two combined must equal 95%.

# The rule only applies to ingredients of animal origin, so grains and vegetables cannot be used as part of the 95% rule. So if the product name was “Beef and Brown Rice”, the product would still have to consist of 95% beef.

25% or “Dinner” Rule

# This rule applies to many canned as well as dry dog foods.

# If the named ingredient, or a combination of ingredients, found on the label consists of 25% of the weight (but less than 95%) excluding water for sufficient processing.

# The name must include a descriptive term, such as “Dinner”, “Platter”, “Entree”, or “Formula”.

# If more than one ingredient is in the name, they must both total 25% combined, with each named ingredient equalling or exceeding 3%.

3% or “With” Rule

# Originally, this rule was intended to apply only to ingredients highlighted on the package, outside of the product name.

# It allows manufacturers to highlight minor ingredients.

# The ingredient must have at least 3% added.

# The rule now allows manufacturers to use the term “With” in the product name.

Be careful when reading the dog food label because “Beef Dog Food” and “Dog Food with Beef” are not the same. The first must have 95% beef, whereas the latter only needs 3%.

Flavor Rule

# A percentage of any one ingredient isn’t required.

# The word “Flavor” must appear on the label in the same font size and color as the ingredient name.

# The flavor might be the corresponding ingredient, but more often than not, it’s another substance such as “meal”, “by-product”, a “stock” or a “broth”.

Guaranteed Analysis

The guaranteed analysis is the next component that needs to be on a dog food label. It serves as a general guide as to what the percentages of the main nutrients and other items are in the total makeup of the product. At the bare minimum, the guaranteed analysis must consist of the following:

# Minimum Percentage of Protein

# Minimum Percentage of Fat

# Maximum Percentage of Fiber

# Maximum Percentage of Moisture

Go ahead and look at your label at this point. See it there? Good. Now, if you have a can of dog food and a package of dry dog food at your disposal, take a look at both labels. After careful analysis you might want to ask, “Hey Michael, I notice when looking at both labels that the dry dog food has way more nutrients. I thought canned food had way more protein…what gives?”

Keep this in mind, as I have noticed this as well, that the amounts of protein and other nutrients stated on the labels appear to be less for canned versus dry, but looks are deceiving. The reason? Differences in moisture content. Canned dog food, on average, consists of 75% water, while dry dog food contains about 10%. So to make a true comparison of the nutrient levels, we need to put both types on the same playing field. To do this, we will be converting both products to dry matter.

To convert the nutrients, we need to dust off our calculators that we last used in high school, in order to perform a little math. (And you said to your math teacher, “I’ll never use this in the real world!”), But I digress. Here’s the formula we will be using: % Guarantee divided by % Dry Matter multiplied by 100

Example In one corner, we have a canned dog food that has a guaranteed analysis consisting of 9% protein, 6% fat, 1.5% fiber and 78% moisture. In the other corner, we have a dry dog food that has a guaranteed analysis consisting of 24% protein, 14.5% fat, 4% fiber and 10% moisture.

# Dry matter of canned: 100 - 78 = 22

# Dry matter of dry: 100 - 10 = 90

# Now we can do our calculations

Canned Dog Food

# Protein: 9 / 22 x 100 = 40.9%

# Fat: 6 / 22 x 100 = 27%

# Fiber: 1.5 / 22 x 100 = 6.8%

Dry Dog Food

# Protein: 24 / 90 x 100 = 26.6%

# Fat: 14.5 / 90 x 100 = 16.1%

# Fiber: 4 / 90 x 100 = 4.4%

So after were done, do you notice the protein? The canned dog food actually has 14% more protein.

Nutritional Adequacy Statement

You’ve seen it on the labels…”Complete”, “Balanced”, “For All Lifestages”, among others. But how are these claims substantiated? What rules are in place to regulate such verbage? The answer is set forth, once again, by the AAFCO.

The Nutritional Adequacy Statement is required and is one of the most important aspects of a dog food label. This statement assures us that a product meets all of a dog’s nutritional requirements. So how is a dog food substantiated for nutritional adequacy? They must use one of two ways:

Calculations

# The method whereby the dog food contains ingredients formulated to provide levels of nutrients that meet an established profile

# Calculations estimate the amount of nutrients either by an average nutrient content of ingredients or results of laboratory tests using standard chemical analysis.

# If it meets the profile set by the AAFCO, the label will carry a statement as follows: “(Name of product) is formulated to meet the nutritional levels established by the AAFCO (Dog) Food Nutrient Profiles for (specific life stage).”

Feeding Trials

# The product (or a similar product made by the same company) has been tested in dogs under strict guidelines and found to provide proper nutrition

# If it meets the profile set by the AAFCO, the label will carry a statement as follows: “Animal feeding tests using AAFCO procedures substantiate that (name of product) provides complete and balanced nutrition for (specific life stage).”

The Nutritional Adequacy Statement will also include a statement about which life stage(s) the dog food is suitable for. Two profiles are used. Below is a definition of each and additional information about other profiles:

# Growth/Lactation - A product intended for growing puppies, for pregnant dogs or lactating females.

# Maintenance - Suitable for any adult, non-reproducing dog of normal activity level, but may not be sufficient for a growing, reproducing, or hard working dog.

# Terms like “Senior” or “Formulated for Large Breed Adults” means the dog food meets the requirements for the Maintenance profile, but nothing more.

# A product that doesn’t fit within the two profiles above must state that “This product is intended for intermittent or supplemental feeding,” except if it is conspicuously identified as a snack or treat.

Feeding Guidelines

Feeding guidelines are very broad, to say the least. At a minimum, they should include instruction like “Feed ___ Cups Per ___ Pounds.” But keep in mind that these instructions are very rough estimates. Most people feed their dogs way too much. In fact, 25% of all dog’s are overweight…causing problems such as:

# Diabetes

# Arthritis

# Heart and Liver Problems

# Bladder Cancer

You should treat the guidelines as a place to start. Talk with your veterinarian about your dog food and how much to feed. They understand that nutritional requirements vary and, by knowing your dog, they will be able to recommend a feeding schedule based upon several factors including:

# Age

# Body Weight

# Breed

# Genetics

# Activity Level



ARMAND

Larry Volwiler asked:


Once people become familiar with electronic training products and use them properly, they find the methodology is proven, efficient, economical, and ethical.

The type of training in which an electronic aid is used is critically important, for it will influence the type of product and methods used. Is the equipment being used to teach a new obedience command, correct some common misbehavior, or is it being used to reinforce another electronic training methodology?

Factors affecting success Before an electronic training tool is used, it is strongly suggested that the entire training situation be re-examined. There are three major considerations in this re-evaluation:



Does the owner know what he is doing, does he understand the training process, and can he apply proper methodology to a specific situation?

Is the owner training the dog properly, does he have a plan for this specific misbehavior, and is he executing that plan appropriately and correctly?

Is the dog trainable? Is the dog in question stubborn, set in his ways, or unintelligent?



(We believe that all dogs are trainable. Dogs that seem stubborn, or unintelligent, have simply not been trained properly, consistently, or effectively.)

Of these factors, the first two are most important. If training is not successful, in most cases it is because owner education, preparedness, consistency or commitment is lacking. This may be difficult for some owners to accept, but remember that we have invited dogs into our environment. It is our responsibility to teach them in ways they can understand. This is incredibly important, because if an owner has not taken the time, or applied the appropriate techniques properly and consistently, training with an electronic product will not make a difference. It will only confuse even the smartest dog.

There are certain signals that suggest a dog has not been properly trained. In these instances a dog may:



Resist when his owner attempts to place a collar around his neck.

Withstand correction, of any type, in the presence of certain distractions

Control his owner by acting timid or by ignoring his owner

Panic when he senses a warning.

Attempt to escape when receiving a correction

Do anything except the behavior necessary to avoid the correction.



Education is the key. If an owner takes the time to understand electronic training - why it works, how it works, how to apply the appropriate techniques - it can be a beneficial tool.

Electronic training requires knowledge and skill Why the concern for proper education? Because of the largest variable in the equation - the owner. Let us face it, humans are very unpredictable, as far as dogs are concerned. The response of most owners to the need for correction varies widely, depending on the dog, the training, the situation at hand, and even the mood they happen to be in at the time. This is not conducive to effective training - of any kind.

In most cases, a dog exhibits a behavior in response to some stimulus or distraction. Owners must be careful not to create yet another, different misbehavior by misapplying the correction, or applying it at the wrong time. And, for the safety of the dog, it is unnecessary to correct it for every little thing. Owners must be selective to avoid canine confusion. When applied properly, electronic training can be done successfully. To help understand this, let us examine how people respond to their dog without electronics.

Dog owners respond to their dog in any number of different ways. They may reward their dog by petting, talking, providing food or treats, playing, or letting them sleep on the bed. The list is as long as there are owners on it. These same owners also correct in various ways, including yelling, hitting, throwing things, the use of a chain link training collar, ignoring their dog, not providing food or treats, or isolation in a room, crate, or kennel. This does not imply that all of these forms of reward and correction are acceptable. Only that they are multiple, and that training can be successful under some of these circumstances. So it is with electronic training.

One of the greatest acknowledged advantages of electronic training is that sophisticated electronics do make us humans more predictable. It enhances human consistency, especially as it relates to correction. It also allows humans to easily and conveniently apply appropriate corrections, even when a dog is not within range of traditional (leash and choker collar) correction techniques.

Rules of electronic training As was mentioned earlier, electronic training operates on the same basic principles used in all canine behavior modification: correction, redirection, and reward. Therefore, it is imperative that the dog understands the basics before more sophisticated training begins.

‘Dummy Equipment Effect’: Before electronic training begins, the owner/trainer needs to be comfortable in the use of the device, and the dog needs to be comfortable, as well. Thus it is very important to create the ‘Dummy Equipment Effect’ before beginning.

Dogs are highly intelligent and certainly smart enough to know the difference between the different types of collars being used. They look different. They smell different. They exert different pressures on the neck once they are applied. Even the owner/trainer acts differently with the different collars. In some cases, the owner/trainer is there; in other cases, he is not.

Because all of this is true, it is important to eliminate the equipment itself from the learning process. Here is how.

Before beginning to train with an active electronic collar, the dog should first become accustomed to a deactivated collar (i.e., take the battery out). Even if the dog trainer or dog owner is under pressure to train the dog quickly (e.g., the neighbors are complaining), he still needs to teach the dog that the collar is not something to be feared.

The last thing someone wants to see is the dog cowering when it is being approached with a training collar, electronic or otherwise. By spending just a few days introducing the dog to the collar, other problems can be prevented.

General Rules: All of the general rules of obedience training apply to electronic training as well. In fact, they are probably even more important in electronic training. These guidelines include:



Do not train the dog for extended periods of time.

Limit the number of corrections the dog receives in one training session and in one training day.

Be sure that corrections are properly balanced with reward.

Always give the correction at the same time. That is, do so only when the dog is actually misbehaving, not before the misbehavior occurs or after the misbehavior has stopped. This is important because it gives the dog a chance to learn, (i.e., to understand what causes the correction in the first place).



Finally, the beginning point of most electronic training includes the use of a leash, which serves to help redirect the dog away from escape and other inappropriate responses. This, in turn, makes it increasingly important not to correct arbitrarily or out of frustration. As a dog trainer or owner, it is necessary to be as disciplined as you want the dog to be.

The importance of redirection and reward Electronic training combines several different techniques. Applying a correction is only a small part of a training program. Redirection and praise are far more important.

Why is this methodology important? Suppose there is a dog in a containment system, but every day he charges away and barks at a jogger who is running along outside the established bounds. What should be the desired correction? He should come when he is called, stay in the yard, and stop barking at the jogger. But chasing and barking are perfectly normal in a dog’s natural environment. Only in the human environment are they inappropriate.

Therefore, if the owner/trainer really wants to train the dog under these circumstances, he must first correct at the appropriate time, and consistently. He would do so using an obedience command. So, before beginning more complicated electronic training, it is important that the dog understand basic obedience commands. The trainer/owner must build from a solid foundation provided by these training basics.

In this specific instance, as soon as the dog takes off running, he would be given the ‘Come’ command. That way, when applying correction, it is because the dog did not come on command, not because he is chasing a jogger. Conversely, when the dog does obey immediately, he is praised for responding to the command, not for breaking off his pursuit. This is called redirection.

The risks in electronic training are the many variables. This same situation, handled improperly, can have the opposite effect. It could train the dog to attack joggers. A correction at the wrong time may cause the dog to identify the correction stimulus with the jogger. Dogs are known to have fight or flight responses to such threats. If the dog’s response is to ‘fight,’ joggers beware!

Reward: Unfortunately, some dog trainers/owners put the emphasis on correction. Even in this article, the information is weighted in this area. This is because correction is the area where most training problems occur. Reward is a much easier concept to understand and apply. During training, the dog should constantly and consistently be given a deserved reward - preferably praise and petting - for behavior that meets his training objectives. Again, timing is critical. The dog must be able to make the connection between the reward and the appropriate behavior.

Gratuitous reward is also a no-no. The dog trainer must reward the dog only when he is behaving properly. Do not worry, there will be plenty of opportunities to do so. Unless, of course, the dog trainer/owner slacks off and chooses to reward inconsistently; or he breaks down further and treats the dog to praise, petting, and food, even if a behavior is inappropriate.

Emotional and energy outlet: Appropriate emotional outlets also bear some discussion in this context. Obviously, electronic training is designed to stop a dog from exhibiting misbehaviors, and help reward him for what the dog trainer/owner considers appropriate behavior. But if a dog cannot leave the yard, no reward can replace the freedom he has lost. In such cases, a dog must be given other appropriate outlets. This is why activities like running with the dog, or playing with him, are extremely important.

Redirection: Redirection is equally important, if not more so. In many electronic training situations, the dog trainer/owner needs to provide an alternate behavior for the dog. This redirection provides a known behavior pattern that the dog can fall back on, enabling the dog trainer/owner to reward him. A good example of such a behavior pattern is the ‘Sit,’ ‘Get your ball,’ or other command the dog already understands.

Have a plan: Overall, what one tries to do with redirection and reward is build better behavior in the dog. But when building anything, it is useful to have a blueprint - a plan that outlines specifically what to do under an array of circumstances.

Because of all the variables involved with electronic training, the dog trainer/owner needs to have such a plan. He needs to know exactly what he is going to do before a situation arises. Because, when it comes to training dogs, he needs to expect the unexpected. But if there is a plan in place, he will know exactly what to do.

The best plans are the simplest - the ones that ask the dog to do something basic. Pick something the dog has done many times before; perhaps a ‘Sit’ and ‘Stay’ command. Reliance on an old habit can bring a misbehaving dog - even a frightened or frazzled dog - back into the comfort zone. This will enable the dog trainer/owner to reward the dog, or regroup, should this become necessary.



GUADALUPE

Abby asked:


My mom and I were talking about our dog, which a miniature pincher, and she told me that they are made up of 5 different dog breeds. Is this true? If so, what dog breeds is it mixed with?

BRYAN

Jay Jacovitz asked:


“The greatness of a nation and its moral progress can be judged by the way its animals are treated.” Mahatma Gandhi.

MYTH #1 — You need to use a choke collar to leash train your dog. This is just not true and choke collars should only be used by those experienced in their use if at all. Choke collars do exactly what they say — they cut off your dog’s air supply! Needless to say, it’s a health hazard and you can do serious damage to your dog’s esophagus!

MYTH #2 — You need a prong (spike) collar to train “tough” dogs. This is not true just like myth #1 is not true. Prong collars have spikes that jab into your poor dog’s neck every time the leash is jerked. The truth is that most people do NOT need to discipline their dogs in this aggressive way! Only experienced dog-training professionals should be using prong collars, and they know the special situations that call for it. This collar should NEVER be used by the average dog owner.

MYTH #3 — You need an electronic shock collar to stop your dog’s barking. No feeling person should imagine that this modern convenience is a humane act, and in truth it is just not necessary. It’s EASY to stop a dog’s barking without using something as inhumane as SHOCKING! 

Studies show shock collars work on only a small percentage of dogs and it teaches the dog to be afraid of the collar! What is worse, you are creating tremendous stress and most likely serious damage to your dog’s immune system!

MYTH #4 — You need to dominate your dog by using physical force (smacking, hitting, and choking). Your dog needs to view you and the family members as the “pack leader”. But this respect is not accomplished or earned by beating your dog!!!!! In the wild, a pack leader doesn’t suddenly overreact and beat its pack members into the ground.

A pack leader is calm, consistent, and fair. Sure you can beat a dog into obedience. You can smack it, yell at it, and shock it to force it to obey your every command, but this abuse will not gain your dog’s  respect — it’ll just make your dog fearful of you and have to suffer a life of anxiety! It won’t love you… and you will NOT have earned its unwavering loyalty. Your dog will be afraid of you, cower and grovel submissively every time you make a fast move in its direction and will always be looking for a way to escape your company.

Is THIS the kind of relationship you want with your dog? Of course not…

MYTH #5 — You need to YELL at your dog, so it perceives you as tough. Yelling accomplishes little with people and even less with dogs that do not speak your language. To a dog yelling sounds like frantic barking — which the dog will interpret as something is wrong! Good trainers can easily control their dogs with a quiet whisper, body language and hand signals…. And, of course, there are other less than intelligent and inappropriate training recommendations like throwing bottles filled with rocks at your dog, putting your dog on prozac, isolating it from the family, and tons more horrible actions directed at dogs in the name of discipline and training.

Make your dog LOVE you…not SCARED of you!

You may be wondering, if negative reinforcement doesn’t work, why do so many dog trainers insist you should PUNISH your dog to train it?

This is how a lot of so-called “professional” trainers make their money!

These are trainers who intimidate and force the dogs to do what they want (the William Koehler trainers) that today we regard as old school “yank and crank” trainers being kind, cruel and abusive to be accurate. The problem with yank and crank trainers is the dogs seldom like their handlers and in fact are often afraid of them, and their training produces inconsistent results along with dogs that don’t like or respect their owners. If you don’t have a good bond with your dog, or if your dog does not respect you as a pack leader, you will never reach consistency in training.

A modern compassionate “Hands-Off Dog Training Program” focuses on teaching YOU how to train your dog using simple voice commands, handle signals, and well-timed positive reinforcement. Free Video CLICK HERE

This type of training program gets results QUICKLY because your dog actually has fun!

This type of training can Stop your dog’s WORST habit in just 6 days…Without laying a finger on your dog!

Problems such as:

1. Constantly pees on your favorite rug or couch

2. Barks out your window like crazy at people and cars

3. Growls at you for “invading” its favorite couch space

4. Jumps on you, your family, and friends

5. Plays too rough with your kids

6. Refuses to “come” when called

7. Ignores basic obedience commands like “sit”

8. Tries to dig or chew its way out of your backyard

9. Constantly begs for food at the kitchen table

… Or whatever other problems you may be having.

 

You can be taught how to tap into your dog’s natural canine instincts and manipulate its behavior. And the best news is it will only take you 5-10 minutes of training per day so within just 6 days of starting this program, you’ll have put an end to your dog’s most annoying and destructive habits…

… And best of all, it’ll only take you 5-10 minutes of training per day!

For the rest of the story…CLICK HERE



DUSTIN