Dog|dog-123.com
Nov
29
Filed Under (Pets) by dog
John Williams Dog Training asked:
There are plenty of dog tricks around to choose from but starting off with your first puppy or dog and knowing which dog tricks are easy can be a bit of a challenge. If you have a puppy then training them will be a lot easier than an older dog because of the habits dogs fall into when they are brought up.
Older dogs will have different habits and a strong personality by then so they may find some advanced tricks easier than basic tricks because of the way they have been brought up.
Although the same as above can be true for puppies also, this is more likely to be because of the breed of dog you have and the different general personalities that go with them breeds.
In this article we assume you have taught your dog the basics or sit and stay etc and now you want to teach your dog a fun ‘show-off’ type trick to impress your friends or family when they visit. There are many tricks from bringing you the TV remote to riding a skateboard, but to start off I recommend something simple like the figure of eight around your legs.
This is similar to other commands you will have taught your dog and involves you using treats to encourage your dog to perform actions. To do this trick you simply have hold a treat in one hand and guide your dog through one side of your legs, through the middle then around to complete a figure of eight motion. Try to hold the treat close to your dog’s nose to keep them interested and always reward them with praise afterwards and the treat afterwards.
After you have mastered this and can get your dog to do it on command you’re ready for your next trick and one step closer to the skateboard. Good luck!
ALDEN
There are plenty of dog tricks around to choose from but starting off with your first puppy or dog and knowing which dog tricks are easy can be a bit of a challenge. If you have a puppy then training them will be a lot easier than an older dog because of the habits dogs fall into when they are brought up.
Older dogs will have different habits and a strong personality by then so they may find some advanced tricks easier than basic tricks because of the way they have been brought up.
Although the same as above can be true for puppies also, this is more likely to be because of the breed of dog you have and the different general personalities that go with them breeds.
In this article we assume you have taught your dog the basics or sit and stay etc and now you want to teach your dog a fun ‘show-off’ type trick to impress your friends or family when they visit. There are many tricks from bringing you the TV remote to riding a skateboard, but to start off I recommend something simple like the figure of eight around your legs.
This is similar to other commands you will have taught your dog and involves you using treats to encourage your dog to perform actions. To do this trick you simply have hold a treat in one hand and guide your dog through one side of your legs, through the middle then around to complete a figure of eight motion. Try to hold the treat close to your dog’s nose to keep them interested and always reward them with praise afterwards and the treat afterwards.
After you have mastered this and can get your dog to do it on command you’re ready for your next trick and one step closer to the skateboard. Good luck!
ALDEN
Nov
21
Filed Under (Pets) by dog
Phil Donahoe asked:
A dog is an instinctively aggressive creature. In the wild, aggression came in very handy: dogs needed aggression to hunt, to defend themselves from other creatures, and to defend resources such as food, a place to sleep, and a mate. Selective breeding over the centuries has minimized and refined this trait significantly, but there’s just no getting around it: dogs are physically capable of inflicting serious harm (just look at those teeth!) because that’s how they’ve survived and evolved. And Mother Nature is pretty wily – it’s hard to counteract the power of instinct!
But that doesn’t mean that we, as dog lovers and owners, are entirely helpless when it comes to handling our dogs. There’s a lot that we can do to prevent aggression from rearing its ugly head in the first place – and even if prevention hasn’t been possible (for whatever reason), there are still steps that we can take to recognize and deal with it efficiently.
- Different aggression types -
There are several different types of canine aggression. The two most common ones are:
- Aggression towards strangers
- Aggression towards family members
You may be wondering why we’re bothering categorizing this stuff: after all, aggression is aggression, and we want to turf it out NOW, not waste time with the details – right?
Well … not quite. These two different types of aggression stem from very different causes, and require different types of treatment.
- Aggression towards strangers -
What is it?
It’s pretty easy to tell when a dog’s nervy around strange people. He’s jumpy and on the alert: either he can’t sit still and is constantly fidgeting, leaping at the smallest sound, and pacing around barking and whining; or he’s veerrrry still indeed, sitting rock-steady in one place, staring hard at the object of his suspicions (a visitor, the mailman, someone approaching him on the street while he’s tied up outside a store.)
Why does it happen?
There’s one major reason why a dog doesn’t like strange people: he’s never had the chance to get used to them. Remember, your dog relies 100% on you to broaden his horizons for him: without being taken on lots of outings to see the world and realize for himself, through consistent and positive experiences, that the unknown doesn’t necessarily equal bad news for him, how can he realistically be expected to relax in an unfamiliar situation?
What can I do about it?
The process of accustoming your dog to the world and all the strange people (and animals) that it contains is called socialization. This is an incredibly important aspect of your dog’s upbringing: in fact, it’s pretty hard to overemphasize just how important it is. Socializing your dog means exposing him from a young age (generally speaking, as soon as he’s had his vaccinations) to a wide variety of new experiences, new people, and new animals.
How does socialization prevent stranger aggression?
When you socialize your dog, you’re getting him to learn through experience that new sights and sounds are fun, not scary.
It’s not enough to expose an adult dog to a crowd of unfamiliar people and tell him to “Settle down, Roxy, it’s OK” – he has to learn that it’s OK for himself. And he needs to do it from puppyhood for the lesson to sink in.
The more types of people and animals he meets (babies, toddlers, teenagers, old people, men, women, people wearing uniforms, people wearing motorcycle helmets, people carrying umbrellas, etc) in a fun and relaxed context, the more at ease and happy – and safe around strangers - he’ll be in general.
How can I socialize my dog so that he doesn’t develop a fear of strangers?
Socializing your dog is pretty easy to do – it’s more of a general effort than a specific training regimen.
First of all, you should take him to puppy preschool. This is a generic term for a series of easy group-training classes for puppies (often performed at the vet clinic, which has the additional benefit of teaching your dog positive associations with the vet!).
In a puppy preschool class, about ten or so puppy owners get together with a qualified trainer (often there’ll be at least two trainers present – the more there are, the better, since it means you get more one-on-one time with a professional) and start teaching their puppies the basic obedience commands: sit, stay, and so on.
Even though the obedience work is very helpful and is a great way to start your puppy on the road to being a trustworthy adult dog, really the best part of puppy preschool is the play sessions: several times throughout the class, the puppies are encouraged to run around off-leash and play amongst themselves.
This is an ideal environment for them to learn good social skills: there’s a whole bunch of unfamiliar dogs present (which teaches them how to interact with strange dogs), there’s a whole bunch of unfamiliar people present (which teaches them that new faces are nothing to be afraid of), and the environment is safe and controlled (there’s at least one certified trainer present to make sure that things don’t get out of hand).
Socialization doesn’t just stop with puppy preschool, though. It’s an ongoing effort throughout the life of your puppy and dog: he needs to be taken to a whole bunch of new places and environments.
Remember not to overwhelm him: start off slow, and build up his tolerance gradually.
- Aggression towards family members -
There are two common reasons why a dog is aggressive towards members of his own human family:
- He’s trying to defend something he thinks of as his from a perceived threat (you).
This is known as resource guarding, and though it may sound innocuous, there’s actually a lot more going on here than your dog simply trying to keep his kibble to himself.
- He’s not comfortable with the treatment/handling he’s getting from you or other members of the family.
What’s resource guarding?
Resource guarding is pretty common among dogs. The term refers to overly-possessive behavior on behalf of your dog: for instance, snarling at you if you approach him when he’s eating, or giving you “the eye” (a flinty-eyed, direct stare) if you reach your hand out to take a toy away from him.
All dogs can be possessive from time to time – it’s in their natures. Sometimes they’re possessive over things with no conceivable value: inedible trash, balled up pieces of paper or tissue, old socks. More frequently, however, resource-guarding becomes an issue over items with a very real and understandable value: food and toys.
Why does it happen?
It all boils down to the issue of dominance. Let me take a moment to explain this concept: dogs are pack animals. This means that they’re used to a very structured environment: in a dog-pack, each individual animal is ranked in a hierarchy of position and power (or “dominance”) in relation to every other animal. Each animal is aware of the rank of every other animal, which means he knows specifically how to act in any given situation (whether to back down, whether to push the issue, whether to muscle in or not on somebody else’s turf, etc etc).
To your dog, the family environment is no different to the dog-pack environment. Your dog has ranked each member of the family, and has his own perception of where he ranks in that environment as well.
This is where it gets interesting: if your dog perceives himself as higher up on the social totem-pole than other family members, he’s going to get cheeky. If he’s really got an overinflated sense of his own importance, he’ll start to act aggressively.
Why? Because dominance and aggression are the exclusive rights of a superior-ranked animal. No underdog would ever show aggression or act dominantly to a higher-ranked animal (the consequences would be dire, and he knows it!)
Resource guarding is a classic example of dominant behavior: only a higher-ranked dog (a “dominant” dog) would act aggressively in defence of resources.
To put it plainly: if it was clear to your dog that he is not, in fact, the leader of the family, he’d never even dream of trying to prevent you from taking his food or toys – because a lower-ranking dog (him) will always go along with what the higher-ranking dogs (you and your family) say.
So what can I do about it? The best treatment for dominant, aggressive behavior is consistent, frequent obedience work, which will underline your authority over your dog. Just two fifteen-minute sessions a day will make it perfectly clear to your dog that you’re the boss, and that it pays to do what you say.
You can make this fact clear to him by rewarding him (with treats and lavish praise) for obeying a command, and isolating him (putting him in “time-out”, either outside the house or in a room by himself) for misbehaviour.
- If you’re not entirely confident doing this yourself, you may wish to consider enlisting the assistance of a qualified dog-trainer.
- Brush up on your understanding of canine psychology and communication, so that you understand what he’s trying to say – this will help you to nip any dominant behaviors in the bud, and to communicate your own authority more effectively
- Train regularly: keep obedience sessions short and productive (no more than fifteen minutes – maybe two or three of these per day).
Why doesn’t my dog like to be handled?
All dogs have different handling thresholds. Some dogs like lots of cuddles, and are perfectly content to be hugged, kissed, and have arms slung over their shoulders (this is the ultimate “I’m the boss” gesture to a dog, which is why a lot of them won’t tolerate it.) Others – usually the ones not accustomed to a great deal of physical contact from a very young age – aren’t comfortable with too much full-body contact and will get nervy and agitated if someone persists in trying to hug them.
Another common cause of handling-induced aggression is a bad grooming experience: nail-clipping and bathing are the two common culprits.
When you clip a dog’s nails, it’s very easy to “quick” him – that is, cut the blood vessel that runs inside the nail. This is extremely painful to a dog, and is a sure-fire way to cause a long-lasting aversion to those clippers.
Being washed is something that a great many dogs have difficulty dealing with – a lot of owners, when confronted with a wild-eyed, half-washed, upset dog, feel that in order to complete the wash they have to forcibly restrain him. This only adds to the dog’s sense of panic, and reinforces his impression of a wash as something to be avoided at all costs – if necessary, to defend himself from it with a display of teeth and hackles.
Can I “retrain” him to enjoy being handled and groomed?
In a word: yes. It’s a lot easier if you start from a young age – handle your puppy a lot, get him used to being touched and rubbed all over. Young dogs generally enjoy being handled – it’s only older ones who haven’t had a lot of physical contact throughout their lives that sometimes find physical affection difficult to accept.
Practice picking up his paws and touching them with the clipper; practice taking him into the bath (or outside, under the faucet – whatever works for you, but warm water is much more pleasant for a dog than a freezing spray of ice-water!), and augment the process throughout with lots of praise and the occasional small treat.
For an older dog that may already have had several unpleasant handling/grooming experiences, things are a little more difficult. You need to undo the damage already caused by those bad experiences, which you can do by taking things very slowly – with an emphasis on keeping your dog calm.
The instant he starts to show signs of stress, stop immediately and let him relax. Try to make the whole thing into a game: give him lots of praise, pats, and treats.
Take things slowly. Don’t push it too far: if you get nervous, stop.
Dogs show aggression for a reason: they’re warning you to back off, or else! If your dog just can’t seem to accept being groomed, no matter how much practice you put in, it’s best to hand the job over to the professionals.
Your vet will clip his nails for you (make sure you tell him first that he gets aggressive when the clippers come out, so your vet can take the necessary precautions!). As far as washing and brushing goes, the dog-grooming business is a flourishing industry: for a small fee, you can get your dog washed, clipped, brushed, and whatever else you require by experienced professionals (again, make sure you tell them about your dog’s reaction to the experience first!)
EDMUNDO
A dog is an instinctively aggressive creature. In the wild, aggression came in very handy: dogs needed aggression to hunt, to defend themselves from other creatures, and to defend resources such as food, a place to sleep, and a mate. Selective breeding over the centuries has minimized and refined this trait significantly, but there’s just no getting around it: dogs are physically capable of inflicting serious harm (just look at those teeth!) because that’s how they’ve survived and evolved. And Mother Nature is pretty wily – it’s hard to counteract the power of instinct!
But that doesn’t mean that we, as dog lovers and owners, are entirely helpless when it comes to handling our dogs. There’s a lot that we can do to prevent aggression from rearing its ugly head in the first place – and even if prevention hasn’t been possible (for whatever reason), there are still steps that we can take to recognize and deal with it efficiently.
- Different aggression types -
There are several different types of canine aggression. The two most common ones are:
- Aggression towards strangers
- Aggression towards family members
You may be wondering why we’re bothering categorizing this stuff: after all, aggression is aggression, and we want to turf it out NOW, not waste time with the details – right?
Well … not quite. These two different types of aggression stem from very different causes, and require different types of treatment.
- Aggression towards strangers -
What is it?
It’s pretty easy to tell when a dog’s nervy around strange people. He’s jumpy and on the alert: either he can’t sit still and is constantly fidgeting, leaping at the smallest sound, and pacing around barking and whining; or he’s veerrrry still indeed, sitting rock-steady in one place, staring hard at the object of his suspicions (a visitor, the mailman, someone approaching him on the street while he’s tied up outside a store.)
Why does it happen?
There’s one major reason why a dog doesn’t like strange people: he’s never had the chance to get used to them. Remember, your dog relies 100% on you to broaden his horizons for him: without being taken on lots of outings to see the world and realize for himself, through consistent and positive experiences, that the unknown doesn’t necessarily equal bad news for him, how can he realistically be expected to relax in an unfamiliar situation?
What can I do about it?
The process of accustoming your dog to the world and all the strange people (and animals) that it contains is called socialization. This is an incredibly important aspect of your dog’s upbringing: in fact, it’s pretty hard to overemphasize just how important it is. Socializing your dog means exposing him from a young age (generally speaking, as soon as he’s had his vaccinations) to a wide variety of new experiences, new people, and new animals.
How does socialization prevent stranger aggression?
When you socialize your dog, you’re getting him to learn through experience that new sights and sounds are fun, not scary.
It’s not enough to expose an adult dog to a crowd of unfamiliar people and tell him to “Settle down, Roxy, it’s OK” – he has to learn that it’s OK for himself. And he needs to do it from puppyhood for the lesson to sink in.
The more types of people and animals he meets (babies, toddlers, teenagers, old people, men, women, people wearing uniforms, people wearing motorcycle helmets, people carrying umbrellas, etc) in a fun and relaxed context, the more at ease and happy – and safe around strangers - he’ll be in general.
How can I socialize my dog so that he doesn’t develop a fear of strangers?
Socializing your dog is pretty easy to do – it’s more of a general effort than a specific training regimen.
First of all, you should take him to puppy preschool. This is a generic term for a series of easy group-training classes for puppies (often performed at the vet clinic, which has the additional benefit of teaching your dog positive associations with the vet!).
In a puppy preschool class, about ten or so puppy owners get together with a qualified trainer (often there’ll be at least two trainers present – the more there are, the better, since it means you get more one-on-one time with a professional) and start teaching their puppies the basic obedience commands: sit, stay, and so on.
Even though the obedience work is very helpful and is a great way to start your puppy on the road to being a trustworthy adult dog, really the best part of puppy preschool is the play sessions: several times throughout the class, the puppies are encouraged to run around off-leash and play amongst themselves.
This is an ideal environment for them to learn good social skills: there’s a whole bunch of unfamiliar dogs present (which teaches them how to interact with strange dogs), there’s a whole bunch of unfamiliar people present (which teaches them that new faces are nothing to be afraid of), and the environment is safe and controlled (there’s at least one certified trainer present to make sure that things don’t get out of hand).
Socialization doesn’t just stop with puppy preschool, though. It’s an ongoing effort throughout the life of your puppy and dog: he needs to be taken to a whole bunch of new places and environments.
Remember not to overwhelm him: start off slow, and build up his tolerance gradually.
- Aggression towards family members -
There are two common reasons why a dog is aggressive towards members of his own human family:
- He’s trying to defend something he thinks of as his from a perceived threat (you).
This is known as resource guarding, and though it may sound innocuous, there’s actually a lot more going on here than your dog simply trying to keep his kibble to himself.
- He’s not comfortable with the treatment/handling he’s getting from you or other members of the family.
What’s resource guarding?
Resource guarding is pretty common among dogs. The term refers to overly-possessive behavior on behalf of your dog: for instance, snarling at you if you approach him when he’s eating, or giving you “the eye” (a flinty-eyed, direct stare) if you reach your hand out to take a toy away from him.
All dogs can be possessive from time to time – it’s in their natures. Sometimes they’re possessive over things with no conceivable value: inedible trash, balled up pieces of paper or tissue, old socks. More frequently, however, resource-guarding becomes an issue over items with a very real and understandable value: food and toys.
Why does it happen?
It all boils down to the issue of dominance. Let me take a moment to explain this concept: dogs are pack animals. This means that they’re used to a very structured environment: in a dog-pack, each individual animal is ranked in a hierarchy of position and power (or “dominance”) in relation to every other animal. Each animal is aware of the rank of every other animal, which means he knows specifically how to act in any given situation (whether to back down, whether to push the issue, whether to muscle in or not on somebody else’s turf, etc etc).
To your dog, the family environment is no different to the dog-pack environment. Your dog has ranked each member of the family, and has his own perception of where he ranks in that environment as well.
This is where it gets interesting: if your dog perceives himself as higher up on the social totem-pole than other family members, he’s going to get cheeky. If he’s really got an overinflated sense of his own importance, he’ll start to act aggressively.
Why? Because dominance and aggression are the exclusive rights of a superior-ranked animal. No underdog would ever show aggression or act dominantly to a higher-ranked animal (the consequences would be dire, and he knows it!)
Resource guarding is a classic example of dominant behavior: only a higher-ranked dog (a “dominant” dog) would act aggressively in defence of resources.
To put it plainly: if it was clear to your dog that he is not, in fact, the leader of the family, he’d never even dream of trying to prevent you from taking his food or toys – because a lower-ranking dog (him) will always go along with what the higher-ranking dogs (you and your family) say.
So what can I do about it? The best treatment for dominant, aggressive behavior is consistent, frequent obedience work, which will underline your authority over your dog. Just two fifteen-minute sessions a day will make it perfectly clear to your dog that you’re the boss, and that it pays to do what you say.
You can make this fact clear to him by rewarding him (with treats and lavish praise) for obeying a command, and isolating him (putting him in “time-out”, either outside the house or in a room by himself) for misbehaviour.
- If you’re not entirely confident doing this yourself, you may wish to consider enlisting the assistance of a qualified dog-trainer.
- Brush up on your understanding of canine psychology and communication, so that you understand what he’s trying to say – this will help you to nip any dominant behaviors in the bud, and to communicate your own authority more effectively
- Train regularly: keep obedience sessions short and productive (no more than fifteen minutes – maybe two or three of these per day).
Why doesn’t my dog like to be handled?
All dogs have different handling thresholds. Some dogs like lots of cuddles, and are perfectly content to be hugged, kissed, and have arms slung over their shoulders (this is the ultimate “I’m the boss” gesture to a dog, which is why a lot of them won’t tolerate it.) Others – usually the ones not accustomed to a great deal of physical contact from a very young age – aren’t comfortable with too much full-body contact and will get nervy and agitated if someone persists in trying to hug them.
Another common cause of handling-induced aggression is a bad grooming experience: nail-clipping and bathing are the two common culprits.
When you clip a dog’s nails, it’s very easy to “quick” him – that is, cut the blood vessel that runs inside the nail. This is extremely painful to a dog, and is a sure-fire way to cause a long-lasting aversion to those clippers.
Being washed is something that a great many dogs have difficulty dealing with – a lot of owners, when confronted with a wild-eyed, half-washed, upset dog, feel that in order to complete the wash they have to forcibly restrain him. This only adds to the dog’s sense of panic, and reinforces his impression of a wash as something to be avoided at all costs – if necessary, to defend himself from it with a display of teeth and hackles.
Can I “retrain” him to enjoy being handled and groomed?
In a word: yes. It’s a lot easier if you start from a young age – handle your puppy a lot, get him used to being touched and rubbed all over. Young dogs generally enjoy being handled – it’s only older ones who haven’t had a lot of physical contact throughout their lives that sometimes find physical affection difficult to accept.
Practice picking up his paws and touching them with the clipper; practice taking him into the bath (or outside, under the faucet – whatever works for you, but warm water is much more pleasant for a dog than a freezing spray of ice-water!), and augment the process throughout with lots of praise and the occasional small treat.
For an older dog that may already have had several unpleasant handling/grooming experiences, things are a little more difficult. You need to undo the damage already caused by those bad experiences, which you can do by taking things very slowly – with an emphasis on keeping your dog calm.
The instant he starts to show signs of stress, stop immediately and let him relax. Try to make the whole thing into a game: give him lots of praise, pats, and treats.
Take things slowly. Don’t push it too far: if you get nervous, stop.
Dogs show aggression for a reason: they’re warning you to back off, or else! If your dog just can’t seem to accept being groomed, no matter how much practice you put in, it’s best to hand the job over to the professionals.
Your vet will clip his nails for you (make sure you tell him first that he gets aggressive when the clippers come out, so your vet can take the necessary precautions!). As far as washing and brushing goes, the dog-grooming business is a flourishing industry: for a small fee, you can get your dog washed, clipped, brushed, and whatever else you require by experienced professionals (again, make sure you tell them about your dog’s reaction to the experience first!)
EDMUNDO
Nov
16
Filed Under (Pets) by dog
Chris Smith asked:
Dog crates can be utilized for a variety of purposes, the most popular use for a dog crate is within the home but they are often used for transporting dogs by car or in a dog show environment.
The imperative rule to remember when dog crate training is under no circumstances whatsoever allow your dog to view the crate as punishment, they should never feel that they have been banished to their dog crate. Dogs need the crate to feel welcoming, to be a place of safety, their own little haven.
Dog crate training is generally easier with a puppy as they have no bad experiences to recall when you are enticing them into the crate. Adult dogs can be trickier, especially rescue dogs as you may not possess a lot of knowledge pertaining to the dog’s history. For all you are aware the dog may have been traumatised during its past by being forced into a crate, or confined to a restricted area & abandoned.
Without intending to you could be asking your dog to relive a nightmare, this is where the magic word in dog training comes in “patience”. You have to be respectful of your dog at all times & be tuned into their way of thinking. You will become accustomed to the signs they display when they are becoming agitated, sad, happy or playful - be sure to watch your dog closely.
When dog crate training, either a puppy or an adult dog, the method is very similar. Initially just simply place the dog crate on the floor, preferably in the location that it is to remain. Pop a lovely, cosy dog cushion inside & an item of your clothing. All dogs love to snuggle up with something soft with their owner’s scent on. Along with these items also place one of the dog’s favourite toys inside the dog crate. Then leave the door open & walk away.
Allow your dog the opportunity to explore the dog crate on its own with no pressure from anybody, pay no attention to the dog crate yourself, pretend it is not even there. This way your dog is not sensing any negative thoughts from you regarding the dog crate; it is so insignificant to you that you have not even noticed it.
Leave the dog crate like this for several days. Eventually your dog will give into its curiosity & feel compelled to investigate, when he/she does praise them & offer them a small reward. The first time your dog feels safe enough to enter the dog crate is an important step forward in the dog crate training regime.Therefore you really need to encourage the dog through praise & attempt to persuade them to possibly sit inside the dog crate, even just for a second. If they complete this task then really accentuate your pleasure with them.
By leaving your dog to its own devices it does not feel forced & will view the dog crate as simply a place to sleep. Dogs are fastidious creatures by nature & so will very rarely relieve themselves in their sleeping area.
If you wish to have the door closed eventually, perhaps overnight if you are potty training a puppy, then incorporate this into your dog crate training gradually by pushing the door further & further shut a bit at a time.
Do not alarm your dog to the fact that you are shutting the door just casually push it closed a tiny bit further each evening. When you have achieved actually closing the door always ensure you are present for the first several times as your dog may awaken & go into a panic if it cannot exit the dog crate.
Above all else, always be mindful of the golden rule never make the dog crate a place of punishment for your dog. The process of dog crate training need not be stressful for you or your dog, the calmer the approach that you adopt the better for both you & your canine friend.
ANDRES
Dog crates can be utilized for a variety of purposes, the most popular use for a dog crate is within the home but they are often used for transporting dogs by car or in a dog show environment.
The imperative rule to remember when dog crate training is under no circumstances whatsoever allow your dog to view the crate as punishment, they should never feel that they have been banished to their dog crate. Dogs need the crate to feel welcoming, to be a place of safety, their own little haven.
Dog crate training is generally easier with a puppy as they have no bad experiences to recall when you are enticing them into the crate. Adult dogs can be trickier, especially rescue dogs as you may not possess a lot of knowledge pertaining to the dog’s history. For all you are aware the dog may have been traumatised during its past by being forced into a crate, or confined to a restricted area & abandoned.
Without intending to you could be asking your dog to relive a nightmare, this is where the magic word in dog training comes in “patience”. You have to be respectful of your dog at all times & be tuned into their way of thinking. You will become accustomed to the signs they display when they are becoming agitated, sad, happy or playful - be sure to watch your dog closely.
When dog crate training, either a puppy or an adult dog, the method is very similar. Initially just simply place the dog crate on the floor, preferably in the location that it is to remain. Pop a lovely, cosy dog cushion inside & an item of your clothing. All dogs love to snuggle up with something soft with their owner’s scent on. Along with these items also place one of the dog’s favourite toys inside the dog crate. Then leave the door open & walk away.
Allow your dog the opportunity to explore the dog crate on its own with no pressure from anybody, pay no attention to the dog crate yourself, pretend it is not even there. This way your dog is not sensing any negative thoughts from you regarding the dog crate; it is so insignificant to you that you have not even noticed it.
Leave the dog crate like this for several days. Eventually your dog will give into its curiosity & feel compelled to investigate, when he/she does praise them & offer them a small reward. The first time your dog feels safe enough to enter the dog crate is an important step forward in the dog crate training regime.Therefore you really need to encourage the dog through praise & attempt to persuade them to possibly sit inside the dog crate, even just for a second. If they complete this task then really accentuate your pleasure with them.
By leaving your dog to its own devices it does not feel forced & will view the dog crate as simply a place to sleep. Dogs are fastidious creatures by nature & so will very rarely relieve themselves in their sleeping area.
If you wish to have the door closed eventually, perhaps overnight if you are potty training a puppy, then incorporate this into your dog crate training gradually by pushing the door further & further shut a bit at a time.
Do not alarm your dog to the fact that you are shutting the door just casually push it closed a tiny bit further each evening. When you have achieved actually closing the door always ensure you are present for the first several times as your dog may awaken & go into a panic if it cannot exit the dog crate.
Above all else, always be mindful of the golden rule never make the dog crate a place of punishment for your dog. The process of dog crate training need not be stressful for you or your dog, the calmer the approach that you adopt the better for both you & your canine friend.
ANDRES
Nov
12
Filed Under (Pets) by dog
Kevin Salem asked:
Have you ever wondered what “exactly” could be the reason why does your dog bark, pull on the leash, lunge, growl, attack, shiver, whimper, shy away or is dying to play when faced with other dogs that he is not familiar with?
Here are all the reasons:
You don’t have the right timing, right technique, or the right training tool that can get your dog under your complete control. If a certain tool stops working or doesn’t even seem to faze your dog anymore, try another one. Use what works!
You never thought socializing your dog with other dogs was really important or even possible. So you kept putting it off and now you finally admit that this has become a serious issue!
You have been avoiding any dog you came across by changing routes on your walks, or by walking your dog really late at night or super early in the morning.
Your training foundation is weak or even worse, you have no foundation. Meaning, your dog doesn’t even listen to you that well in private or in your home. So why would he all of sudden behave like a perfect angel around dogs that he doesn’t know or doesn’t feel comfortable with?
Your dog USED to be friendly around dogs, but you slacked off on being involved on dog activities, daily walks, etc. And now, all of sudden your dog doesn’t know exactly how to behave around dogs he hasn’t met before.
Your dog, or perhaps the other dog, isn’t spayed/neutered and they are dying to get it on and prove themselves. Jealousy also causes dogs to act aggressive toward one another.
Your dog whimpers to trick you into thinking that all it wants to do is play, and when you get close to the other dog, all of sudden it charges for the kill. Very sneaky!
You keep on patting your dog in an attempt to calm her down and by saying, “It’s OK. It’s okaaaaaaay. Nooooo…seeeee…. It’s a nice doggie.” But this doesn’t send the right message. In fact by doing so, you are “encouraging” your dog to keep on acting aggressively. This might work on some humans, but it never works on dogs. So do not pat or keep on massaging your dog while she is constantly lunging and growling at other dogs. This translates to: “Go ahead. Kill ‘em.” Even if you say “NO” in between, you are still not being crystal clear with your message.
You misread your dog’s or other dogs’ body language. Sometimes when owners hold the leash tightly, this makes the dogs seem bigger, more tense, nervous, dominant and sometimes even a bit aggressive. Often you notice an owner’s dog is completely relaxed, yet the owner acts scared and desperately tries to pull the dog close to her. This makes the dog appear taller, more tense, with his head up and chest out, which reads a very confrontational gesture to other dogs. So please don’t wrap the leash around your hand three times by anticipating a dogfight.
Your dog always lunges and attacks other dogs and doesn’t really know how to behave. Like a barbarian, it’s totally natural to him to act like a maniac. Basically your dog is thinking, “It doesn’t really matter if the other dog is small, big, black, white, friendly or aggressive. I always lose it when I see other dogs. It’s fun and it keeps me alive. I have that spice in me. Rrrrrruf!”
You have a poor attitude and might even be prejudiced or scared of certain breeds. And guess what? Dogs never miss this and will try to protect you or at least try to scare the other dog. Maybe you **** certain breeds and your dog or the other dogs sense it from your energy, body language, or the fact that you totally changed direction, walked on the other side of the street, or picked up your small dog, hiding him from the rest of the world.
Your dog never lost a dog fight in his entire life and always managed to scare, bully and lunge at dogs and actually get away with it. He probably sees himself as undefeated. The bigger the other dog, the more of a challenge; the bigger the fight, the better the pay per view.
Your dog has been attacked by a dog in the past and got injured badly which resulted in him losing trust and confidence in you. You see, when you couldn’t protect your dog from another dog attacking it, your poor dog had to find a way to protect himself. So now it anticipates another dog attack. This is why now he acts tough to scare the other dogs away. Can you blame him?
Certain dogs provoke your dog more than others. See if you can find any pattern. Is your dog getting aggressive more toward males, females, puppies, adults, small dogs, black dogs, white dogs, fluffy dogs with floppy ears, pointy eared dogs, or even dogs that are not neutered. How about their owners? See if you notice any pattern with them. Some dogs love a challenge and prefer to fight the biggest dogs they can find. Some can’t stand the small dogs’ bark, and the fact that they are more spoiled than bigger dogs, and probably see them as Costco’s appetizers.
You’ve been letting your dog constantly mark on walks and thought it was normal and harmless. Now when your dog sees another dog in your neighborhood, he gets upset and tries to defend his territory. Just as your dog is overprotective of your house and your yard, he now thinks he owns the entire neighborhood just because he peed in every corner and every bush around it. How dare another dog walk in his hood!
Something or even someone has irritated your dog, and now he decides to let it out on another dog. Be honest. Don’t YOU pick on someone or at your loved ones when you aren’t in a good mood? There you go. Your dog has learned it from you!
Your dog is dying to play and interact with the other dog, but doesn’t really know HOW. So he gets mad at you, mad at the other dog, at the leash, at your training tool and at the world! This could be a dog that once he manages to get loose, will lick the other dog to death to show his affection. Most dogs when they want to play, just pull on the leash, whimper, wag their tail happily, or maybe bark and whine in excitement. Not your dog. And it’s really hard to know for sure exactly what he’ll do, when he finally manages to get to the other dog. Will he play or go for the kill? And who’s brave enough to find out?
Your dog gets aggressive only when he is leashed. This might be another form of fear or frustration an attempt to keep the other dogs away. Or your dog notices that when he acts this way, you and the other dog owner walking another dog automatically pull back and don’t let them get close to each other. Your dog knows that he can’t do much while being leashed and his movements are limited. Therefore, it’s much safer to act like a maniac. Basically each bark and growl translates to: “Let me go. Let me go, Mommy. I can take him. Let me show you what I can do. Let me put him on the news for you.”
Your dog is using your “other” dog as a shield/back up and knows it gives her more power when they attack as a pack. These dogs may walk politely one-on-one, but never as a team.
Conclusion: One of the biggest mistakes dog owners make is that they automatically assume that if their pooch loves some dogs, that it will remain dog-friendly with all breeds of dogs for the rest of his life. The truth is, some will, but most WON’T. You must be able to get your dog’s full attention around friendly dogs, aggressive dogs, hyper dogs, small dogs, big dogs, fluffy dogs, and male or female dogs.
It’s like a serial killer. They rarely go on a killing spree of their friends or relatives. It’s always the poor complete strangers.
CODY
Have you ever wondered what “exactly” could be the reason why does your dog bark, pull on the leash, lunge, growl, attack, shiver, whimper, shy away or is dying to play when faced with other dogs that he is not familiar with?
Here are all the reasons:
You don’t have the right timing, right technique, or the right training tool that can get your dog under your complete control. If a certain tool stops working or doesn’t even seem to faze your dog anymore, try another one. Use what works!
You never thought socializing your dog with other dogs was really important or even possible. So you kept putting it off and now you finally admit that this has become a serious issue!
You have been avoiding any dog you came across by changing routes on your walks, or by walking your dog really late at night or super early in the morning.
Your training foundation is weak or even worse, you have no foundation. Meaning, your dog doesn’t even listen to you that well in private or in your home. So why would he all of sudden behave like a perfect angel around dogs that he doesn’t know or doesn’t feel comfortable with?
Your dog USED to be friendly around dogs, but you slacked off on being involved on dog activities, daily walks, etc. And now, all of sudden your dog doesn’t know exactly how to behave around dogs he hasn’t met before.
Your dog, or perhaps the other dog, isn’t spayed/neutered and they are dying to get it on and prove themselves. Jealousy also causes dogs to act aggressive toward one another.
Your dog whimpers to trick you into thinking that all it wants to do is play, and when you get close to the other dog, all of sudden it charges for the kill. Very sneaky!
You keep on patting your dog in an attempt to calm her down and by saying, “It’s OK. It’s okaaaaaaay. Nooooo…seeeee…. It’s a nice doggie.” But this doesn’t send the right message. In fact by doing so, you are “encouraging” your dog to keep on acting aggressively. This might work on some humans, but it never works on dogs. So do not pat or keep on massaging your dog while she is constantly lunging and growling at other dogs. This translates to: “Go ahead. Kill ‘em.” Even if you say “NO” in between, you are still not being crystal clear with your message.
You misread your dog’s or other dogs’ body language. Sometimes when owners hold the leash tightly, this makes the dogs seem bigger, more tense, nervous, dominant and sometimes even a bit aggressive. Often you notice an owner’s dog is completely relaxed, yet the owner acts scared and desperately tries to pull the dog close to her. This makes the dog appear taller, more tense, with his head up and chest out, which reads a very confrontational gesture to other dogs. So please don’t wrap the leash around your hand three times by anticipating a dogfight.
Your dog always lunges and attacks other dogs and doesn’t really know how to behave. Like a barbarian, it’s totally natural to him to act like a maniac. Basically your dog is thinking, “It doesn’t really matter if the other dog is small, big, black, white, friendly or aggressive. I always lose it when I see other dogs. It’s fun and it keeps me alive. I have that spice in me. Rrrrrruf!”
You have a poor attitude and might even be prejudiced or scared of certain breeds. And guess what? Dogs never miss this and will try to protect you or at least try to scare the other dog. Maybe you **** certain breeds and your dog or the other dogs sense it from your energy, body language, or the fact that you totally changed direction, walked on the other side of the street, or picked up your small dog, hiding him from the rest of the world.
Your dog never lost a dog fight in his entire life and always managed to scare, bully and lunge at dogs and actually get away with it. He probably sees himself as undefeated. The bigger the other dog, the more of a challenge; the bigger the fight, the better the pay per view.
Your dog has been attacked by a dog in the past and got injured badly which resulted in him losing trust and confidence in you. You see, when you couldn’t protect your dog from another dog attacking it, your poor dog had to find a way to protect himself. So now it anticipates another dog attack. This is why now he acts tough to scare the other dogs away. Can you blame him?
Certain dogs provoke your dog more than others. See if you can find any pattern. Is your dog getting aggressive more toward males, females, puppies, adults, small dogs, black dogs, white dogs, fluffy dogs with floppy ears, pointy eared dogs, or even dogs that are not neutered. How about their owners? See if you notice any pattern with them. Some dogs love a challenge and prefer to fight the biggest dogs they can find. Some can’t stand the small dogs’ bark, and the fact that they are more spoiled than bigger dogs, and probably see them as Costco’s appetizers.
You’ve been letting your dog constantly mark on walks and thought it was normal and harmless. Now when your dog sees another dog in your neighborhood, he gets upset and tries to defend his territory. Just as your dog is overprotective of your house and your yard, he now thinks he owns the entire neighborhood just because he peed in every corner and every bush around it. How dare another dog walk in his hood!
Something or even someone has irritated your dog, and now he decides to let it out on another dog. Be honest. Don’t YOU pick on someone or at your loved ones when you aren’t in a good mood? There you go. Your dog has learned it from you!
Your dog is dying to play and interact with the other dog, but doesn’t really know HOW. So he gets mad at you, mad at the other dog, at the leash, at your training tool and at the world! This could be a dog that once he manages to get loose, will lick the other dog to death to show his affection. Most dogs when they want to play, just pull on the leash, whimper, wag their tail happily, or maybe bark and whine in excitement. Not your dog. And it’s really hard to know for sure exactly what he’ll do, when he finally manages to get to the other dog. Will he play or go for the kill? And who’s brave enough to find out?
Your dog gets aggressive only when he is leashed. This might be another form of fear or frustration an attempt to keep the other dogs away. Or your dog notices that when he acts this way, you and the other dog owner walking another dog automatically pull back and don’t let them get close to each other. Your dog knows that he can’t do much while being leashed and his movements are limited. Therefore, it’s much safer to act like a maniac. Basically each bark and growl translates to: “Let me go. Let me go, Mommy. I can take him. Let me show you what I can do. Let me put him on the news for you.”
Your dog is using your “other” dog as a shield/back up and knows it gives her more power when they attack as a pack. These dogs may walk politely one-on-one, but never as a team.
Conclusion: One of the biggest mistakes dog owners make is that they automatically assume that if their pooch loves some dogs, that it will remain dog-friendly with all breeds of dogs for the rest of his life. The truth is, some will, but most WON’T. You must be able to get your dog’s full attention around friendly dogs, aggressive dogs, hyper dogs, small dogs, big dogs, fluffy dogs, and male or female dogs.
It’s like a serial killer. They rarely go on a killing spree of their friends or relatives. It’s always the poor complete strangers.
CODY
Nov
10
Filed Under (Entertainment) by dog
bisonfilms asked:
Booger, Kitty and Mousey, along with their friend Gregory PIke.
ALPHONSE
Nov
07
Filed Under (Dogs) by dog
Agent S asked:
My friend has a dog who growls even if someone tries to shake his hand. But the dog grew up in a house with other people too. Is there a certain way he brought up the dog that made him this way or is it just a natural trait in certain dogs?
BRAIN
My friend has a dog who growls even if someone tries to shake his hand. But the dog grew up in a house with other people too. Is there a certain way he brought up the dog that made him this way or is it just a natural trait in certain dogs?
BRAIN
Nov
01
Filed Under (Pets) by dog
Daniel Millions asked:
When you are training your dog, it should not be uncomfortable for either you or your dog. With the right attitude, you and your dog can have fun during every dog training session. The more fun that you and your dog have during these sessions means that your dog will be motivated to continue its dog training.
Most dog training begins when the dog is still a puppy. At a young age, it is easy to scare a dog and even break the dog’s spirit if you are too harsh during training sessions. If you are too harsh with your dog, your dog will not be as well socialized with humans or other dogs as the dog that is treated with kindness.
It is important to remember that a young puppy is just a youngster who may be prone to make mistakes at first. It is especially important that you make sure to praise the dog more often than you tell the dog, “no.” Your dog may enjoy different rewards for performing well including playtime with you, time with its favorite toy or food treats. Find out what your dog really likes and work that in as a reward.
Be patient with your dog. Many dog breeds have long memories. For this reason, you do not want to create bad memories about you for your dog. A dog that is treated lovingly and with respect will be easier to train than the dog that is fearful of its master.
You can make dog training for dog tricks easier on your dog. You can do this by observing your dog to see which tricks will be more natural to teach your dog. For instance, if your dog likes to carry things in its mouth already, it will be easier to teach it to fetch than if the dog has not carried anything in its mouth. A dog that likes to jump can be easier to teach to dance on its hind legs than the dog that does not like to be on its hind legs very often.
When training your dog, do not continue training until the dog is bored. Your dog will view these sessions with less enthusiasm that you would like. A bored dog will be very difficult to motivate into doing anything after awhile. Stop training while the dog still wants to continue because this will make the dog look forward to the next training session.
If you can stay your happy self during dog training, your dog will love these sessions and will try to please you even more. When a dog is trained well, the dog will be loyal and feel secure with you. You never want your dog to think that you can turn into an out of control maniac in the next minute if you do not get your way.
When you give your best to your dog, your dog will do the same for you in return. You will develop a stronger bond with a well-treated dog than with a dog with which you are harsh. It is up to you to keep your feelings under control when you are dog training. Your dog will be your obedient and loving friend for life if you treat your dog right. That is why is it important to have the right attitude when you are training your dog.
COLIN
When you are training your dog, it should not be uncomfortable for either you or your dog. With the right attitude, you and your dog can have fun during every dog training session. The more fun that you and your dog have during these sessions means that your dog will be motivated to continue its dog training.
Most dog training begins when the dog is still a puppy. At a young age, it is easy to scare a dog and even break the dog’s spirit if you are too harsh during training sessions. If you are too harsh with your dog, your dog will not be as well socialized with humans or other dogs as the dog that is treated with kindness.
It is important to remember that a young puppy is just a youngster who may be prone to make mistakes at first. It is especially important that you make sure to praise the dog more often than you tell the dog, “no.” Your dog may enjoy different rewards for performing well including playtime with you, time with its favorite toy or food treats. Find out what your dog really likes and work that in as a reward.
Be patient with your dog. Many dog breeds have long memories. For this reason, you do not want to create bad memories about you for your dog. A dog that is treated lovingly and with respect will be easier to train than the dog that is fearful of its master.
You can make dog training for dog tricks easier on your dog. You can do this by observing your dog to see which tricks will be more natural to teach your dog. For instance, if your dog likes to carry things in its mouth already, it will be easier to teach it to fetch than if the dog has not carried anything in its mouth. A dog that likes to jump can be easier to teach to dance on its hind legs than the dog that does not like to be on its hind legs very often.
When training your dog, do not continue training until the dog is bored. Your dog will view these sessions with less enthusiasm that you would like. A bored dog will be very difficult to motivate into doing anything after awhile. Stop training while the dog still wants to continue because this will make the dog look forward to the next training session.
If you can stay your happy self during dog training, your dog will love these sessions and will try to please you even more. When a dog is trained well, the dog will be loyal and feel secure with you. You never want your dog to think that you can turn into an out of control maniac in the next minute if you do not get your way.
When you give your best to your dog, your dog will do the same for you in return. You will develop a stronger bond with a well-treated dog than with a dog with which you are harsh. It is up to you to keep your feelings under control when you are dog training. Your dog will be your obedient and loving friend for life if you treat your dog right. That is why is it important to have the right attitude when you are training your dog.
COLIN
